Winter Vacation 2010, Day Seven: Homeward Bound

Black Rock Lodge
Black Rock Lodge from along the Macal River

Alas, Friday saw the end of our time in Belize. We spent a quiet morning reading and watching birds. We wrote in our journals. We ate breakfast and lunch, savoring our last meals from the lodge’s excellent kitchen.

The food at Black Rock Lodge deserves a special mention. It’s great stuff, though not great in the same way you might think of a great restaurant. Instead, it’s great in a home-cooked way.

Breakfasts and lunches are ordered from a limited menu. They include traditional American fare (yogurt, french toast, tuna sandwiches, hamburgers) as well as Central American stuff (fresh tropical fruit, nachos, quesadillas, burritos). I loved the fact that I could order a breakfast with one slice of french toast, two scrambled eggs, a slice of ham, and a dollop of refried black beans. Delicious! (And I learned that I love refried black beans, something I hadn’t had before. I’m hooked now.)

Jungle
The Belizean jungle as seen from Black Rock Lodge

As I mentioned before, dinners at Black Rock are served family style. Each cabana is assigned a seat ever night, usually next to somebody you haven’t dined with before. Everyone chats and gets to know the other guests. You only have two choices for dinner: meat or veg. Otherwise all guests (and staff) eat the same thing.

Dinner starts with fresh bread and soup — and what soups we ate! They were delicious! Even soups I might not care to try turned out to be fantastic: cream of celery, cucumber, pumpkin and coconut, potato dill. Following the soup, we’re served a salad (a different salad every night) and our entree. And then, at the end, comes a small dessert.

Here, for example, is a typical dinner menu:

  • Fresh-squeezed juice
  • Fresh-baked rolls
  • Cream of celery soup
  • Onion salad
  • Herbed snapper with linguini and peas (for meat-eaters) or curried lentils and chickpeas with peas (for vegetarians)
  • Coffee cake (literally coffee-flavored cake)

As I say, the food was great, but not in a restaurant-y sort of way. More in a “my mom is a great cook” sort of way. Some things that helped to set the food apart:

  • Most (all?) of the produce is fresh from the lodge’s own garden.
  • The poultry, eggs, and dairy products come from the local Mennonite population.
  • Dishes are tasty without being complex.
  • Portions are reasonable, not jumbo-sized American portions.
  • All the food is real food; there’s nothing artificial.

Before we left, I asked the kitchen staff if I could take their photo:

The Kitchen at Black Rock Lodge

As you can see, this looks more like your average church kitchen than a commercial kitchen. Very homey. Also before we left, a couple of the guests requested the recipes of their favorite soups. We didn’t get to try the tomato-lime soup below (it was served the day before we arrived), but we hear it’s fantastic:

Tomato-Lime Soup

2 pounds tomatoes
2 onions
2 tablespoons complete seasoning
1/4 cup lime juice
salt to taste

Wash and cut tomatoes and onions. Cook until soft. Blend. Put to boil for 10 minutes. Stir in lime juice. Serve hot.

Black Rock's Garden
The Black Rock garden

We did, however, get to try this celery soup, which is much much better than you could possible imagine:

Cream of Celery Soup

2 bunches of celery
1 big onion
1 stick of butter
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons complete seasoning
3 tablespoons Italian seasoning
2 teaspoons black pepper
6 cups water
1 cup milk
1/4 cup lime juice

Wash and cut onion and celery. Sautee onion and celery with butter. Add seasoning. Add water and milk. Bring to boil until soft. When the mixture has cooled, blend. Stir in lime juice. Serve hot.

Rock Formation

On Friday afternoon, we joined Brian and Lauren and the couple from Saskatchewan (Leon and Pat) for the two-hour drive back to Belize City and the airport. Elvis (our guide for birdwatching and the nighthike) drove us to the airport.

As we started down the bumpy six-mile road to the Great Western Highway, Kris lamented that she hadn’t seen an iguana in Belize. It seemed like all of the other guests had seen one, but not us. And what did the seemingly-magical Elvis do? He slowed the van and pointed to a fence-post at the edge of the orange orchard. “There’s one,” he said.

Iguana

But he didn’t just show us one iguana. For the next six miles, he pointed them out all over the place along the side of the road: on fences, in trees, sunbathing on rocks. (And he pointed out an enormous iguana roosted in a tree above a gas station in San Ignacio.) Elvis didn’t just point out iguanas. He stopped and showed us a crocodile that lives in a pond near the Black Rock property. Plus, he and Kris spent the next two hours showing each other birds they spotted in the air and on the roadside.

As they shared their love of nature, Kris and Elvis chatted. She learned that he works 12 days at black rock, and then gets 3 days off. (Some of the other employees work 10 days on, 4 days off.) He commutes 1-1/2 hours by bus to get to work, then lives on site, then commutes home.

As we drove south of Belmopan, Elvis pointed out the brick house he built over six years next to his older wooden home. He has six children, the oldest of which is 17. He doesn’t like driving jobs (such as hauling us to the airport) as much as nature jobs (like birdwatching and nighthikes). Elvis — and all of the other folks at Black Rock — was fantastic, and we hope he gets to do plenty of nature-oriented stuff in the future. It’s in his blood.

Our flight home was uneventful but jarring. The layover in Houston seemed like we were in a foreign country. It’s amazing how in just a week you can forget the omnipresent American media (remember, I noticed the same thing after returning home from Europe in 2007), our egotism, and our obsession with fake food. (I’m very guilty with the fake food stuff, no question.)

On the flight from Houston to Portland, we were seated in front of a pair of loud, annoying women. One of them owns a dessert place here in Portland, and she drove us nuts with her self-centered inane babble. Plus, she kept kicking Kris’s seat. I won’t say which place she owns, but let’s just say I won’t be having a piece of cake there ever again. (Which is fine since I didn’t like her stuff, anyhow.)

Even as we were driving home at one in the morning, I was already thinking about where I could travel next. Mac and I will spend a week in Alaska during May. I’ll be doing Cycle Oregon in September. And then Kris and I will spend three weeks in Europe later this year. But what about next year? And the year after? I like this travel stuff, and I want to do more. Who knows where the future will take me…

Winter Vacation 2010, Day Six: Birds of Belize

One of the great things about staying at Black Rock Lodge was there was so much to explore just on the grounds themselves.

The Grounds of Black Rock Lodge

We could have hiked up the hill to see the cave, gone further to the scenic view, or climbed all the way to the top. We could have floated further down the river. We could have biked along the 6-mile gravel road that leads toward San Ignacio, looking at the birds and iguanas and, yes, the crocodile. There’s so much we didn’t do.

On our last full day in Belize, we decided to take advantage of some of the lodge activities. I’ll quote from Kris’s journal:

Thursday. Early morning bird hike with Elvis. Absolutely the best. 1-1/2 hours not very far from the lodge. Saw about 30 different species including the keel-billed toucan, national bird of Belize. Elvis was amazing at spotting the birds and locating them from their calls.

Giovanni and Elvis
Giovanni (one of the managers) with the guard dogs, and Elvis with his spotting scope.

Then a quick breakfast and off to horseback ride with Louis. We rode Romeo and Mercedes. As usual, J.D. has the pokey horse, so we end up switching. 3-1/2 hours and I am so sore at the end! Right knee, especially, but a fun ride, very challenging, with trotting and cantering at the end. Saw a flock of ~20 montezuma oropendola flying up from the canopy.

Kris and Louis Saddle Up

Kris is right that I always seem to get the pokey horse. Worse, I’m the world’s worst horseman; I have no talent for it. Romeo and I were basically immobile. Kris was sad to have to give up Mercedes, and so was Mercedes. She and I didn’t really get along, though she did actually move for me.

It took me a long time to figure out how to trot properly. For an hour or more, I just sat in there and let my ass (and other parts) slam into the saddle. It was so painful! (I eventually had to cup my private parts with my hand when we trotted.) After some tips from our guide Louis, I managed to find a position that let me trot with a little less pain. (Thank goodness!)

We made our way along the road to town, then cut through the orange grove. As we took in the sweet scent of the blossoms (seriously, one of my favorite smells ever), Louis paused to pick an orange for each of us. Then we continued on our way up into the hills.

Eventually we came to Tipu, a small Mayan ruin. Leon (from Saskatchewan) and Louis chatted about the ruins (and about horses):

Leon and Louis at Tipu

I posed in front of the gorgeous valley view (which a photo cannot do justice):

J.D. Overlooking a Vista

On our return trip, Louis stopped to ask the orchard’s caretaker if we could have some coconuts, and he agreed. Louis cut them down with his machete, hacked open an end, and gave us each one to drink. Kris loved the milk, but Leon hated it. I was somewhere inbetween.

Back at the lodge, Kris spent the afternoon roaming the grounds with the camera, photographing the birds of Belize. We’ve been saving up these bird photos all week. Rather than space them out, we’re going to give them to you all right now. Some things to note:

  • We’re very amateur photographers, and we know that.
  • Photo quality varies. In some cases, the birds were moving. In others, lighting was poor (dawn or dusk). And in many instances, the animals were far away, so we’ve had to crop tightly to get a photo of reasonable size.
  • Also, we’re amateur birders. We’ve done our best to identify these, but in some cases, we’re sure to be wrong. (And in some cases, Kris and I disagree. That’s not a King Vulture, for example, no matter what Kris says.)

So, here you are. The birds of Belize…

Let’s start by looking at this handsome fellow, the keel-billed toucan, the national bird of Belize:

Keel-billed toucan

There were tons of cattle egrets all over the place. They particularly like to hang out with the dozen horses as they roamed the grounds of the lodge:

Cattle egrets

On our early morning bird hike, another guest (Andy) loved these violaceous trogans:

Violaceous trogan  Violaceous trogan

This little gray catbird is a cutie. She gets her name because she purportedly makes a noise like a cat, though it’s not like any cat I’ve ever heard:

Gray catbird

Here are two birds with American names, the Baltimore oriole and the Kentucky warbler:

Baltimore oriole  Kentucky warbler

And here are two woodcreepers, the ivory-billed woodcreeper and the olivaceous woodcreeper (which is small, and photographed from a distance in dim light):

Ivory-billed woodcreeper  Olivaceous woodcreeper

From woodcreepers to woodpeckers — here are the black-cheeked woodpecker and the pale-billed woodpecker:

black-cheeked woodpecker  pale-billed woodpecker

There were so many hummingbirds around the lodge. We photographed tons, but most of the photos didn’t turn out, as you can imagine. This white-necked jacobin is quite nice, though:

white-necked jacobin

Kris likes hawks, so was quite pleased to see this juvenile black hawk hanging around the lodge:

juvenile black hawk  juvenile black hawk

On our early morning bird-watching expedition, Elvis spotted this white-crowned parrot peeking out of his nest. We’re not sure how he saw it since it looks like just a nub on a tree. (Actually, Elvis has done this so often, that he knows where the birds live, so he probably knew to look here.) Eventually, this little guy came out for a snack.

white-crowned parrot in nest  white-crowned parrot

Here’s a blue-crowned motmot and a cinnamon becard (no relation to the jean-luc picard):

blue-crowned motmot  cinnamon becard

Here’s a bird we could not identify:

Unidentified bird of Belize

There were lots of yellow birds in the jungle, including the kiskadee and the white-collared manakin:

Kiskadee  white-collared manakin

At Tikal (in Guatemala), we saw a couple of birds we didn’t see in Belize, including the ocellated turkey (which is sort of iridescent blue and green) and the unidentified bird on the right:

Ocellated Turkey  unidentified bird at Tikal

Also at Tikal, we saw Kris’s favorite bird: the montezuma oropendola. While riding horses, we saw an entire flock of them moving through the jungle canopy. They’re beautiful. So beautiful that I’m including two photos (neither of which do them justice):

montezuma oropendula

montezuma oropendula

Here are two vultures: The common turkey vulture we see in Oregon, and another one that Kris is calling a King Vulture, but which I think is something else:

Turkey Vulture  Vulture

Here are two tanagers. The first is a yellow-winged tanager hanging out at the lodge’s compost pile. The second is a beautiful crimson-collared tanager.

yellow-winged tanager  crimson-collared tanager

And, finally, my favorites: The collared aracari from the lodge. They flew in every morning and afternoon to have a snack at the banana trees. They’re beautiful:

Collared Aracari

Collared Aracari

We saw lots more birds than just these, and took more photos than I’ve shared. Kris is sure to be cranky that these are the only birds I’ve posted, but not everyone is as into birds as she is. (As she left for work today, she paused at the doorway. She was doing something with the jays — I’m not sure what. “I’m trying to train them,” she said. I didn’t ask in what way, but don’t be surprised if the next time you see her, Kris is followed by a flock of scrub jays.)

“Was it worth it?” Kris asked at the end of our trip.

“What do you mean?” I said.

“The five months of writing? The book? Was all of that a fair trade for one week in Belize?” We used my advance on royalties to fund this trip.

“No,” I said. “It’s not a trade I’d make again. But if the book earns back the advance, it might be worth it. Besides, that’s not how I look at it. The book is one thing, and Belize is another. They both have their goods and their bads. I’m glad I did both.”

Kris and J.D. on Horseback

Tune in tomorrow for one last look at Belize, including a look at the lodge’s kitchen (and a couple of soup recipes)!

Winter Vacation 2010, Day Five: Caves Branch River

On Wednesday, we signed up to do cave tubing at Jaguar Paw. But because another couple at Black Rock Lodge — Brian and Lauren from Long Island, New York — had already signed up for a similar excursion from a different resort, the management asked us to tag along with them. “It’s more expensive, but we’ll give it to you for the same price,” they said. And so we did it.

Victor drove us from Black Rock to San Ignacio to Belmopan (the capital of Belize) to the Ian Anderson resort on the Caves Branch River. Along the way, we chatted with Brian and Lauren, whom we had not met before. Again, they’re another interesting young couple who likes to travel. (Brian owns a small parcel of land in Costa Rica, and hopes to one day build a house there, I think.)

At Ian Anderson’s we joined folks from two other resorts. Our party of nine piled into an old school bus. Our guide Pablo sat behind the wheel, and we started our journey.

To reach the river, we drove about two miles over a bumpy dirt road that wound through an awesome orange grove. (Awesome because the scent of the orange blossoms was so strong and so delicious.)

The Road through the Orange Grove

I wish I’d managed to get a shot of the hills that lined both sides of the orchard valley. With the low morning clouds hanging over the forest, it was absolutely gorgeous.

At one point, our rickety old school bus actually forded a river bed. Fortunately, the river we crossed was just a stream, though the bed itself was very broad (and filled with stones, not mud). Eventually, we reached our destination, unloaded the tubes, and walked to the river.

Preparing to Enter Cave

The day was much cooler than the hot and humid days that had preceded it. It was maybe 22 degrees centigrade, and the water was again about 17 degrees: All very comfortable. (Though the area around the river was filled with these nasty biting horseflies, which made things a little less fun.)

After a short paddle, we reached the mouth of the cave, which looked rather innocuous from the outside. You’d never know there was anything in here:

Cave Mouth

Looking back at the entrance once we were inside made me wish I had my SLR with me instead of a little point-and-shoot. I could have spent an hour playing with composition, trying to get a great photo out of this:

Looking Back at Entrance

Instead, I had maybe 30 seconds.

Once inside the cave, we alternated between paddling in the water and getting out to carry our tubes.

Carrying Tubes through Cave

We paused now and then to look at the cool stuff: a set of rapids (or was it a waterfall?) that disappeared into the wall of the cave, the bats perched in the ceiling, the artifacts left by Mayan people hundreds (or thousands) of years ago.

And, of course, the caves were filled with stalactites and stalagmites and other interesting rock and mineral formations.

Rock Formations

After tubing upstream for a ways, we piled out and climbed into the cave’s upper reaches.

Climbing into Cave

Here, our guide Pablo sat us down to give us a brief lecture on Mayan culture, the history of the cave, and the nature of the artifacts that have been left behind.

Pablo Lectures about Mayan Pottery

After we were finished exploring, Pablo spread a sheet on a relatively flat “beach” beside the river. We made a lunch of salami tortillas and hard-boiled eggs while chatting with our companions. At one point, we all turned off our headlamps to experience the total darkness. It was a little bit frightening, but it was fun.

It was so fun, actually, that we did it again after lunch. To exit the cave, we climbed into our tubes and floated on the slowly-moving current. At times, we’d all turn our lights off so that we were floating in the dark. Without light, and with a uniform temperature all around (we’d become accustomed to the water), it was impossible to tell whether we were moving or not. It was eerie, but neat.

According to Kris’s notes, we were in the water for four hours, though it certainly didn’t seem that long. I could have stayed on the water all day. I really enjoyed the tubing.

After exiting the cave, the group paused for a few minutes so that the brave souls (most of the group) could leap from a cliff (maybe 20 feet high?) into the swimming hole below. We cowards (including me and Kris) had fun watching.

The cave tubing was a great time, and I’m grateful to Erica for recommending it to us. Here’s a five-minute video that chronicles our journey to Belmopan and back. (For the shots where we’re driving, I’ve had to remove the soundtrack; there was way too much wind noise.)

Back at Black Rock Lodge, dinner was amazing, as all the dinners had been. The food at the lodge is great, but in a home-cooked sort of way, not a commercial kitchen sort of way. The lodge grows its own produce in an organic garden, and they buy poultry, dairy, and eggs from the large Mennonite population in Belize.

The soups at the lodge were particularly amazing, especially the cream of celery, which sounds gross but is actually fantastic. Look for a more extended rave about the kitchen on Friday, including the recipe for that celery soup!

Kris and J.D. inside the Cave

A note on water temperature: I keep describing the rivers in Belize as cool but not cold, and being about 16-17 degrees centigrade, but that’s just a guess. I don’t actually know how to judge river temperatures. I’m basing these guesstimates on the fact that room temperature is 20 degrees (or 68 fahrenheit), and the water felt cooler than that, but not uncomfortable. Of course, it may be that skin-on-water functions differently than skin-on-air. Maybe in water, you need body temperature (37 degrees) to fell comfortable, which would mean the water was closer to 30 degrees. Any scientists care to clue me in?

Winter Vacation 2010, Day Four: The Macal River

After Monday’s long and tiring tour of Tikal, Kris and I decided to take it easy on Tuesday. We spent the morning on the porch of our cabana: Kris took photos of birds (look for all of our bird photos on Thursday), and I read and smoked.

Me in a Hammock in Belize

When the heat and humidity increased, we made our way to the unused yoga pavilion, grabbed a couple of drinks (I had a red “fruit punch” Fanta and Kris had a lime juice), turned on the ceiling fans, and continued reading. The Macal River roared below us. It was bliss.

The Macal River runs through the Cayo District (a district is like a state or province) in western Belize. There’s a dam just upstream from Black Rock Lodge, and the folks who run the dam open and close the gates at seemingly random intervals. Sometimes the water level is high; sometimes it’s low. When the water is high, as it was on the night I tried to swim across the river, the current moves swiftly and the waterfall is shallow. But when the water is low, the current is very gentle and the waterfall is steep.

Floating on the River
In the afternoon, we got a closer view of the Macal. We hiked about a mile upstream carrying tubes, life jackets, and helmets. We put ourselves into the warm water (maybe 16 or 17 centigrade) and pushed off for the lodge.

We floated.

We floated.

We floated.

Every so often, we’d come to a series of rapids, which gave us a bit of variety and allowed us to get soaked. Because the water was low (and the current slow) when we started our tubing adventure, I often found myself high-centered on rocks and boulders; I’d have to stand and walk to deeper waters. But mostly, we floated.

As we floated, we soaked in the sun. We splashed in the water. We pointed out the birds, big and small. We looked at the trees and the rocks and the sky. We took our time.

After about an hour of floating, we neared the lodge — and the waterfall we knew was coming. As we approached, we could sense the pace of the current increase. (We didn’t know it at the time, but they’d opened the dam and the water level was rising.) We could hear the roar of the falls.

“If you make it over the falls without flipping, your first beer of the night is on me,” Giovanni (the day’s manager) had told me. I gave it my best shot, but my best shot wasn’t good enough. I flipped, though I managed to hold onto the tube.

Tim Tubes the Macal River 1

Tim Tubes the Macal River 2
Note: This is not me. This is Tim making the run when the river is high.

I watched Kris make her run. She did it! She stayed on, and the crowd of onlookers cheered — but then she lost her balance and went under.

I made a second run at the falls (in order to retrieve Kris’ lost tube), but this was worse than the first. I lost my grip and went under, sucked beneath the falls and kept there by the suction. I felt like I was under for 15 to 20 seconds. (“Nah,” said Giovanni when we got back to the lodge. “It just seemed that way. It was maybe a couple of seconds.”)

Note: Twice during this trip — during my failed swim across the river, and when I was trapped under the waterfall — my mind raced to a book I finished reading recently: Shadow Divers. This book is about SCUBA divers who hunt for shipwrecks. One of the profiled divers has a motto that goes something like, “Take care of the first problem.” By this he means, when something goes wrong, take care of the problem immediately, and just take care of that problem, instead of panicking and creating additional problems. Sound advice.

In the late afternoon, we sat in the lodge with Tim and Shana, and Simon and Catherine.

When Spiders Ruled the Earth
Note: If your name is Jeff Roth, you probably want to skip this section.

After dinner (snapper and linguini), Kris and I took a one-hour night hike. Our tour guide, Elvis, equipped us with spotlight headlamps and led us along the trail above the Macal River. Elvis, an experienced hunter and self-trained naturalist, pointed out birds, scorpions, tarantulas, and spiders. Especially spiders.

Tarantula

In fact, it’s impossible to describe just how many spiders we saw. We’re not talking hundreds of spiders or thousands of spiders, but millions of spiders. When our lights shone on them, their eyes sparkled in the night like tiny stars of yellow, blue, and green. It was amazing — and more than a little frightening (especially when they moved).

Here’s an audio recording of the first ten minutes of our night hike, which includes tilapia, a scorpion, a centipede, a nightjar, a couple of tarantulas, and thousands of spiders:

After the hour-long trek through the stifling heat of the jungle, we were soaked. “It’s hot,” Elvis said at one point. When the natives think it’s hot, it’s hot. Back in our cabana, we took cold showers.

This was a sad evening in a way, because it meant saying good-bye to two couples we both liked: Tim and Shana, and Simon and Catherine. But who knows? Maybe we’ll see them again someday.

Winter Vacation 2010, Day Three: Guatemala and Tikal

We rose early on Monday to leave for Guatemala and the Mayan ruins known as Tikal. After a short van ride to the border between the two countries, we were out of Belize and in another world.

Though similar to Belize in many ways, Guatemala featured some key differences. Belize is laid back. As soon as we crossed the border, things seemed more tense: Armed guards with heavy-duty shotguns, and so on. Also, English is the primary language in Belize; in Guatemala, it’s Spanish. But mostly, the two countries seemed more similar than different.

Here’s a little roadside shack typical of the stores we saw in Guatemala and Belize. There are tons of these little buildings, from which people sell soda and snacks.

Guatemalan Store

Some folks sell from carts. I asked one tour guide if they needed permits to sell from their stands and carts. “Yes, of course,” he said.

And here are a couple of Guatemalan houses, which are similar to the homes we saw in Belize. I actually think these homes are larger than most of those we saw. These have two stories, and the one on the left has a thatched addition in the rear. Many of the homes we saw were only the size of a single floor (so, a few hundred square feet maybe).

Guatemalan Houses

Most homes have clothes lines with laundry hung out to dry. Many also have bikes and tools left in the open and animals in the yard, few of which restrained. In Belize and Guatemala, animals roam free. Most livestock is tied up or fenced, but that’s not always the case. Dogs are unleashed and walk along the side of the road just like the people. (They seem to have their own dog agendas.)

Guatemalan dogs

We saw goats and chickens and horses loose, too, though I suspect the horses weren’t meant to be out. And in Guatemala, we saw pigs. Lots of pigs, many of them just trotting on the roadside to who knows where:

Guatemalan Pigs

When we finally reached Tikal at about 10am, it was already hot.

Tikal
Tikal was once a major city, the heart of the Mayan world. Its oldest buildings were constructed over 2500 years ago, and temples and structures were gradually added over a period of more than 1000 years. Eventually, Tikal fell into disuse (as rival Mayan cities assaulted it), was abandoned, and fell out of memory. In time, the jungle took over and buried the ruins.

The site was re-discovered in 1848, and restoration began in the 1950s. Now several temples are open and available for public viewing, while other structures are slowly being restored.

Our group was led by Ronny, the very earnest Guatemalan tour guide. His speech was labored as he searched to find the right English words. Sometimes he gave up and used Spanish. (Later I learned that his English is entirely self-taught!)

Tikal Tour Guide

Ronny wasn’t popular with the group, who wanted somebody who was more fluent in English. But I liked him. He was obviously proud of his Mayan heritage and the Guatemalan culture. He tried hard, and I was glad to have him with us.

Ronny only gradually introduced us to Tikal. First he led us down a long avenue of trees. He paused to give historical information (always searching for the right words). After maybe 30 minutes, he finally brought us to the back side of the awesome Temple I.

Tikal Temple I (rear view)

From the flyer I bought: “Also known by the name of the Great Jaguar Temple, it is the landmark of Guatemala to the world. It has a 45 meters high and it was build around the year 700 A.D. Underneath the temple, the tomb chamber of one of the most famous rulers at Tikal was built.” Ronny called this king the “chocolate ruler”.

We made our way around to the front of the temple and into the temple plaza.

Tikal (Temple I)

The grand plaza was the core of Tikal, and was surrounded by Temple I in east, the Northern Acropolis in the north (surprise!), Temple II in the west, and the Central Acropolis in the south.

To get a better view, we climbed to the top of Temple II (“The Temple of Masks”), which is 38 meters high and was built for the wife of the “chocolate ruler”. From the top of Temple II, the view was amazing.

Tikal Temple I and North Acropolis

Note that part of the Northern Acropolis can be seen to the left of Temple I here. The Northern Acropolis and Central Acropolis were residential quarters for the nobles (or “no bless”, as Ronny called them). These areas also contained administrative offices and tombs.

At the top of Temple II, one of the others in our group (Leon from Saskatchewan) offered to take our photo. His snapshot cracks me up:

Kris and J.D. in front of Temple I

Thanks, Leon!

One of the great things about Tikal (and all of Guatemala and Belize) is that it hasn’t been taken over by lawyers. Tourists want to climb to the top of the temples, so the Guatemalans have built wooden stairs and ladders, most of which are very very steep. (In the photo below, Kris is descending some stairs that are only moderately steep compared to others we saw.) If you want to risk climbing, you climb. If you don’t, you don’t. As I’ve been saying all week, it really reminded me of the U.S. circa 1975. And I liked it.

Temple II Ladder

As you can see, this would never be allowed in the U.S. today. Many of the things we saw and did would not have been possible in the U.S. because of safety regulations and legal concerns.

After we visited the grand plaza, we made our way to Temple V, which is one of the more recently restored temples. Here the steps were even steeper: an almost vertical ladder. But what I liked most was how during restoration, the experts decided to leave the back side of the temple as they’d found it.

Tikal Temple V

“How could Tikal have been lost?” one of our group wondered early on. But after having seen it, I can understand. If the Mayan civilization here really had been routed by rival tribes, Tikal might have faded from memory after a couple of generations. And then the forest would have taken over, jungle vines consuming the buildings. When you see how the jungle clings to and covers the temples, you can see why it took so long to re-discover the city.

The highlight of the day was climbing to the top of Temple IV, which stands 70 meters above the jungle floor. Restoration on this temple has only just begun, so the bottom is still just a mound of earth and vegetation. But the view from the top was incredible:

Tikal Temple IV

Standing on top of Temple IV cannot be described, and pictures don’t do it justice. If only I’d thought to use my video camera, I might have captured some of the wonder.

The Mayans built Tikal on a highland, and Temple IV is on the highest point. It’s also the tallest building in the city, soaring above the jungle. It didn’t used to be surrounded by jungle, but by fertile plains. When constructed 1200 years ago, it commanded a view of the surrounding countryside, making invasion of Tikal difficult, if not impossible.

As we stood atop Temple IV, we baked. The sun was blistering, and the temple itself was like an oven, retaining the heat of the day. In addition to the usual jungle sounds, we could hear the distant roar of a troop of howler monkeys. (They sound like elephants!)

It was only once I’d climbed down from Temple IV that it dawned on me that I’d seen that view someplace before. In fact, I’d seen it many many times. “Omigod,” I said. “Do you know what that was? That was Yavin IV!”

“What are you talking about?” asked Kris.

“Yavin IV. The rebel base in Star Wars. That’s totally it,” I said. I was in a little fan-boy swoon. And I was right:


I know that’s going to seem crazy to many of you, but this really was one of the highlights of my life: To suddenly find myself in the world of Star Wars was incredible, and completely unexpected.

Hot hot hot
We knew before we left that we’d experience some hot and humid days:

Belize Weather

But we just didn’t realize how hot and humid it would really feel. Though Monday’s forecast was for temperatures of 33 centigrade, it actually reached at least 37 while we were at Tikal (and may have gone higher!). It was very much like strolling through a sauna.

After spending three hours among the ruins and covering about four or five miles of walking, we finally took a break for lunch. We dined on chicken and onions with rice. I also had a lemon Crush (!!). I also gave in and ordered fresh lime juice, which was delicious.

Note: One of my favorite parts about traveling to other countries is exploring the food you can buy at stores and restaurants. When you travel to Canada or the U.K., for example, you get different flavors; blueberry is popular in both countries, but you almost never see blueberry stuff in the U.S.

I was hoping Belize would have some interesting foods, but almost everything was just as you’d find here. We did pick up some bacon-flavored potato chips (meh) and some complete seasoning, but nothing else really seemed exotic. The only real food highlight was the lemon Crush in Guatemala and the availability of many flavors of Fanta in Belize.

(By the way, pop still comes in glass bottles in Belize, and the bottles are recycled whole. I had a Coke bottle from 1994; the logo was rubbing off, but the bottle still worked, so they kept putting it back into circulation. Awesome!)

On the drive home, we passed a Guatemalan school with these psychedelic muppets painted on the side:

Guatemalan School

Driving in Guatemala was scarier than driving in Belize (and Belize was scary enough!). At one point on the drive home, for example, we encountered road construction. In the U.S., you’d have a whole crew of flaggers and systematic detours. Not here. Instead, the equipment had torn up the road completely, leaving only the steeply-sloped grassy shoulders. There was nobody to signal traffic. Vehicles had to take turns driving on the side of the road, moving slowly so as not to tip over. And, of course, the roadwork went right up to a bridge over a muddy river.

From what little I saw of it, I love the Guatemalan way of life. It seems so down to earth. It’s also pretty impoverished, I think, but the people are beautiful. I’d love to visit the country for a longer period of time.

Just after we crossed the border back into Belize, John stopped the van to pick up his girlfriend and his little daughter (the same daughter we’d waved to in San Ignacio when John drove us back from the airport on Saturday night). They’d been walking along the road, just like everyone else does in Belize, so John stopped to pick them up. We gave them a lift for a mile or so.

New friends
During the trip to and from Tikal, we chatted with Simon and Catherine from London, England. Catherine is a forensic toxicologist, so she and Kris could compare notes. Simon is in pharmaceuticals and helps organize the 2000 Trees rock festival. We really enjoyed their company over the next couple of days.

Back at the lodge, we continued to chat with Tim and Shana, the doctors from Philadelphia. At dinner, we were seated next to Eric and Viola from Connecticut.

One of the highlights of this trip was talking with the other travelers, especially the young couples. They were all amiable and fascinating. If they lived in Portland, we might count them among our friends. It’s also interesting to hear their travel experiences: Many of us have decided to make world travel a priority, and are willing to make sacrifices — no children, small homes, and so on — in order to make that happen.

Winter Vacation 2010, Day Two: Black Rock Lodge

Belize is humid. Humid humid humid. Like Minnesota in August humid. By 9am, you’re hot and sticky, and you’d better get used to it because it’s going to be that way for the rest of the day. You (and everyone around you) are going to be stinky and sweaty until after nightfall.

How humid is it? The cover of my Belize guidebook curled overnight. The pages of my journal are soft and moist to the touch. All of my clothes feel like they came out of the dryer ten minutes early. And the floor of our cabin is always slick with moisture, like somebody mopped but didn’t dry.

Survival of the Fittest
We woke to find a katydid in the cabana, clinging to the curtains.

Katydid

Kris immediately named it Katy. “I wonder how Katy got in here,” I said. “Because if she can make it inside, then surely the mosquitos can, too.”

“Let’s put Katy outside,” Kris said. “She doesn’t want to be in our cabin.” She spent a couple of minutes trying to herd the frightened bug out the door. “I think she’s hurt,” Kris said. “See how she can’t walk very well?” We left Katy to fend for herself and walked up to the lodge to have breakfast.

We ate with Tim and Shana (Shayna?), two doctors from Philadelphia. Tim is a radiation oncologist and Shana is in the sixth year of an eight-year residency for colo-rectal surgery. Kris and I thought both were smart and funny, and enjoyed our chats with them over the next couple of days.

After breakfast, we sat on our porch, putting on sunscreen and bug spray. “Oops. Katy’s leaving,” I said. “She’s scared of that bird.” I pointed to a white-collared manakin.

“That bird? That bird couldn’t eat Katy,” Kris said. Then she said, “Where’d Katy go?”

“There she is,” I said. “As long as she doesn’t move, she looks like a leaf on the floor of the forest.”

“She sure does,” said Kris. And at that moment, Katy took flight, a broad green butterfly wobbling through the air. “Ooh…look at that,” Kris said.

“I hope she —” I started to say, but at that moment, a smallish bird swooped from a nearby tree and snatched Katy away in his mouth. And that was the end of Katy the katydid, killed by my wife, who was trying to save her.

Note: Later in the week, we learned that if a katydid is in your cabin, it’s near death, anyhow. So if Kris and her bird friend hadn’t killed her, she would have died soon, anyhow.

Vaca Falls
Following Katy’s unfortunate demise, we decided to hike around the lodge to get a feel for the place. We looked at the birds and the trees. Kris made friends with the dozen horses that roam the property:

Kris Makes a Friend

Eventually, we made the 1.5-mile hike from the lodge to Vaca Falls. As we walked, I was again reminded of rural Oregon during the mid 1970s. I was just a boy then, but I remember walking in my grandfather’s woods, and scrambling across the countryside with my friends. I had the same feeling now.

As we followed a dirt road above the Macal River, we looked at the strange vegetation and watched for critters that were new to us. We saw lots of termite nests like this one:

Termite Nest
This termite nest also contained large black ants we later learned were army ants.

Eventually, we reached Vaca Falls, where a couple of men were fishing:

Vaca Falls

Macal River

After enjoying the scenery, we strolled back to the lodge.

About Belize
Belize has a colorful history. Originally home to the Mayan culture, it has at various times drawn its population from Spanish Conquistadors, British pirates, African slaves, Confederate refugees following the U.S. Civil War (no joke!), and immigrants from neighboring Guatemala and Honduras. The United States may be a melting pot, but Belize is a chunky stew.

Formerly known as British Honduras, the country changed its name to Belize in 1973 and became independent from the U.K. in 1981 (though there’s still a strong cultural connection, and British troops are stationed in the country). Political and cultural conflicts with Guatemala bubble beneath the surface. Guatemala stakes a claim to Belize, though it did recognize it as a sovereign nation in 1991.

Belize has a population of 321,000, including several thousand Mennonites. (The Mennonites provide most of the country’s chicken, eggs, and dairy products.) Though there are many Spanish speakers, the official language of Belize is English, and most people speak it. (Nearly everyone we met was bilingual.)

In the afternoon, we did what we’d traveled to Belize for: We relaxed. I climbed in the hammock, smoked my pipe, and did a little reading and writing. Kris joined me on the porch. Ostensibly, she was reading, but really she was watching the wildlife, describing every bird she saw. Life was good.

Me in a Hammock in Belize

Still Waters Run Deep
Did I mention that Belize is humid? By 4pm, I was a sticky, stinky mess. Kris, John H., and I were on the deck overlooking the river when three collared aracari alighted in the nearby plantain trees. John and I scrabbled around on the deck to get good photos. As I did, my own body odor practically knocked me out.

“Wanna swim in the river?” Kris asked after the excitement was over.

“You bet,” I said. We changed and walked down to the shore.

Though the water wasn’t cold (maybe 15 or 16 centigrade), I was a pansy and inched my way in; I wouldn’t dive. But once I was in, I splashed around and had fun. I swam for a black rock about 25 feet away.

Right away, I knew I was in trouble. The current was swift, and I had to swim as hard as I could against it (which admittedly isn’t very hard) in order to stay in one place. Eventually I reached the black rock.

“That’s a perfect demonstration of vector dynamics,” Kris called from the shore.

“Haha,” I said.

The prudent thing at this point would have been to return the way I’d come. But since when have I been prudent? I decided to be bold and adventurous and swim for a sandy clearing on the far shore. Immediately after letting go of the black rock, I knew that I had no chance. The current swept me downstream.

I changed tack. Spying a huge rock formation a little further on, I turned back the way I’d come and let the current carry me to safety. I paused, held to the rock by the rushing water. I was still 25 feet from Kris and there was a lot of river between us.

Based on the way the water bubbled and rolled, I knew there were plenty of rocks just below the surface. But I also saw another giant rock formation just downstream. I steeled my courage and made for it, careful to watch for sunken boulders.

At this second rock formation, things were both much scarier — and less so. I could see that just beyond this outcropping, the river broadened and calmed, so that was good. But the rock itself was dangerous. The swift current had eaten away its base, so that while there was lots of rock on top, there was nothing but an inward-sloping craggy curve below the water. It would be all too easy to get sucked under.

I s-l-o-w-l-y made my way around the rock formation, pushed off, and swam for the sandy shore. Within a minute, I was safe, and I’d formed a new resolve to respect the water.

Kris on the Banks of the Macal River

Winter Vacation 2010, Day One: Belize

Our trip to Belize began at 3:30 last Saturday morning. We crawled out of bed, grabbed our bags, and groggily made our way to the airport. Our travel — a 3.5-hour flight to Houston, a 2-hour layover, and a 2.5-hour flight to Belize City — was uneventful. Just the way we like it.

Note: I used to be an over-packer. When I flew, I’d check a large suitcase stuffed with clothes, as well as a carry-on and a daybag — even for weekend trips. No longer. I made this trip with just a carry-on and a daybag, and even that felt like too much. Next time, I’ll pack even less. (Though I will remember to bring a t-shirt or two.)

My first clue to Belize’s character came at Philip Goldson International Airport in Ladyville, 11 miles northwest of Belize City. Walking from the tarmac into the airport is like walking back in time; I immediately though of the grade school I attended in 1975: the wood desks and doors, the linoleum floors, the lack of most modern technology.

And immigration was perfunctory, at best. The officers who processed our passports were so busy chatting about their weekend plans that they hardly gave us a glance. It took Kris longer to use the washroom than it took for us to make it through immigration and customs!

By far our biggest adventure of the day was the drive from Belize City (or Ladyville) to San Ignacio (and the Black Rock Lodge). We were picked up at the airport by the amiable John, who drove us the two-plus hours to our accommodations.

Internet Cafe

It’s difficult to convey what the roadside is like in Belize, but I’ll try.

If you’ve ever seen how folks drive in India (on The Amazing Race, for instance), then you have an idea of what the roads in Belize are like — though admittedly on a much much smaller scale. We drove on the Great Western Highway, which, despite the name, is a standard two-lane road like you’d see in the Oregon or Washington countryside. (Much of the drive reminded me of going from Estacada to Salem by way of Molalla and Silverton.)

Traffic is chaotic. Vehicles travel at wildly different speeds: Some loaded lorries were crawling at 20 kph; our driver preferred 100 kph. Motorcycles weave in and out of traffic, passing on the left or right. And the roadside is filled with bicycle and pedestrian traffic. Many of the pedestrians are hitching a ride, just like the U.S. in 1975. So, the beds of many pickups were filled with two, five, or six passengers, just like the U.S. in 1975.

Gaby's Motor Cycle Repair Shop

The Great Western Highway is filled with bus stops; the buses themselves are often old and rickety. (In fact, we saw a couple of shattered and abandoned bus hulks by the side of the road.) But through this chaos, order emerges. Drivers and cyclists and pedestrians are all keenly aware of each other. Maybe it’s just because traffic is relatively light, but I never felt unsafe.

After about ninety minutes of driving — first through swampy land, then through savannah, and then through jungle — we reached the twin cities of Santa Elena and San Ignacio, which are divided by the Macal River. As we drove through town, John honked and waved at people. They waved back. “That’s my little daughter,” he said, waving at a seven-year-old girl in a pink dress. She was standing alone outside a store.

Guatemalan Girls

Note: I loved how independent children seemed to be in Belize. Everywhere we went, kids from six to sixteen walked and talked and played without adult supervision, either alone or in groups. Yet another way the country reminded me of the U.S. circa 1975.

Black Rock Lodge signThe final approach to Black Rock Lodge is over a washboarded gravel road six miles long. In some places, the potholes are so large that John drove on the shoulder to avoid them.

“What’s this orchard?” I asked John as the headlights revealed a grove of flowering trees. John stopped the truck and rolled down the windows. After two hours of air conditioning, we were swamped by warm and sticky air, and by a heavy, sweet scent. “Those are orange blossoms,” John told us. “It’s one of my favorite smells.” And now one of mine, too.

We reached the resort just in time for dinner. Dinner at Black Rock Lodge is served family style — you sit at one long table with all of the other guests, and the staff serves you each in turn. (Your only options or “meat” or “veg”; other than that, everyone has the same meal.)

“Hi,” said the fellow sitting next to me. “My name is John and I’m from Oregon.”

“Ha!” I said. “My name is John, and I’m from Oregon, too. I’m a writer.”

“I’m a writer, too,” said John. “My wife Carol and I live in West Linn. Where do you live?”

I laughed again. “We live just across the river from you, in Oak Grove.”

John motioned to the couple across the table from him. “This is Beth and this is another John. They’re from Tigard.”

Black Rock Lodge

So, we’d traveled all day and covered thousands of miles to sit down for dinner with virtual neighbors. (Another strange coincidence: The music playing in the background as we ate was obscure 1980s “alternative” stuff, such as Opus and Marillion and Echo and the Bunnymen. In other words, the stuff I listen to every day.)

After a long day of travel, we went to sleep early. Kris put in her earplugs so my snoring wouldn’t keep her awake. I stayed up, lying in bed, listening to the sounds of the jungle.

Shaking the Dust Off My Feet

“I’m shakin’ the dust of this crummy little town off my feet and I’m gonna see the world: Italy, Greece, the Parthenon, the Colosseum.” — George Bailey in It’s a Wonderful Life

For years, I’ve wanted to make travel a priority. I’ve had tastes of adventure now and then recently, but it’s never been something that I had the time or the money to pursue.

Now, however, it looks like I may be able to finally make travel a recurring part of my life. In the past week, three trips for 2010 have fallen into place. When combined with my tentative plans for 2011, I have a lot of fun ahead of me:

  • Early next spring, I’ll fly to Washington, D.C., to attend a blog conference. Thought the conference is only a day, I’m hoping that Kris and I can spend a week or so exploring the city. Maybe we’ll even venture up to New York.
  • Later in the spring, Mac and I will travel to Alaska with my neighbor, John. John is retired. He spends his summers puttering around on a fishing boat. We’ll join him for a jaunt from Petersburg to Sitka.
  • Next autumn, Kris and I will take our trip to Europe. First we’ll spend time in Italy exploring Venice, Florence, and Rome. Then we’ll take the train to France, where she’s booked us on a river cruise from Paris to Normandy. (If I had my way, we’d do the river cruise and then take a tour of southern France. We’d save Italy for another trip. But Kris — who is always right — says this will be more fun.)
  • In 2011, I have tentative plans to hike across England with my colleague Fraser from Astronomy Today. We’ll spend a few weeks on one of the many walking paths. I’m actually hoping that one or more of my other friends can join us.

Beyond these trips, who knows? These are pretty tame, I know. I’d love to venture to Latin America or Southeast Asia at some point. And I’ve always wanted to visit Africa. There’s a chance I’ll join Chris Guillebeau for a trip to Ethiopia in the fall of 2011. We’ll see. That’s a long way off.

L’homme Lit: Using Rosetta Stone to Learn French

Kris and I are a planning a trip to France and Italy next autumn (meaning: autumn 2010). Details are vague and sketchy right now, but we’ll put our plans together over the next few months.

One thing we both want to do, though, is to learn French. Kris had four years of Spanish in high school, and I had a total of 2-1/2 years of German and one semester of Spanish in my educational career. (Plus I tried to teach myself Latin five years ago.) But neither one of us is really conversant in a foreign language. That’s a shame.

For the past few weeks, I’ve been researching options for learning French.

  • We could buy French textbooks and learn from them.
  • We could take community college classes.
  • We could use free online websites.
  • We could pick up some “learn French fast!” compact discs.

Of these, I think the community college classes would be most effective. Unfortunately, that’s also the least convenient way for us to learn. I kept hoping for a better solution.

Then I began to notice that many people praised Rosetta Stone, a computer-based language program. I’ve seen the Rosetta Stone ads in magazines for years, but never really paid attention. And when I saw the price for the software ($450! On sale!), I just about died.

Last weekend, Kris and I went to see a movie at Clackamas Town Center. Afterward, we wandered the mall. We haven’t been in a mall in years, and it seems like a foreign place to us now. It’s like a different world.

One of the new things that seems to have sprung up is the endless line of kiosks down the center of the mall walkways. These places are staffed by aggressive salespeople looking to hawk their wares. Except at Clackamas, there was a Rosetta Stone kiosk with a decidedly non-aggressive salesperson. We stopped to look at the software. After a ten minute trial, we bought it.

Rosetta Stone uses an “immersion” method to teach languages. You install the core software on your computer, and then you can add language packs. These language packs are designed to immerse you in the language. There’s no English involved at all.

Each language course is divided into three levels. Each level is divided into several units. (There are four units in first-level French.) Each unit is divided into several lessons. Finally, each lesson is divided into several (5-15) exercises.

The exercises all use big photographs of people doing stuff. There are various exercises related to these photographs, and there’s a hell of a lot of repetition. One photo might show a man reading, for example. In the first lesson of a unit, you’d simple look at the photos and listen to a native speaker give you vocabulary. (The reading man would be: “L’homme lit.”)

There are vocabulary lessons, reading lessons, writing lessons, and more. There’s never any explicit grammar lesson (you’re not taught about gendered nouns or the dative case, for example), but instead you’re expected to pick up the grammar buy perceiving the difference any sentence structure in various contexts.

Kris and I have been using Rosetta Stone for the past few days. It’s fun. And effective. Our French knowledge is very limited, but it’s fun to use what we do know. When Max the cat hopped on the counter while we were making dinner last night, I was able to say, “Le chat cuisine.” We both found that funny. (Really le chat just wanted to mange, not cuisine.)

I’m a little skeptical that Rosetta Stone will provide deep knowledge, but I could be wrong. The first level only has four units, and we’re about to start the fourth unit already. Our vocabulary is very limited (colors, a couple of motion verbs, stuff to do with people), as is our grammar. I have high hopes that levels two and three have much greater depth and introduce much more vocabulary.

Actually, for our vocabulary, I’m planning to take a stack of sticky notes and sticky the hell out of the house. I’ll put a la table stick on the table, a de porte sticky on each door, and a la chaise sticky on my favorite chair.

With practice, Kris and I should be able to carry on a French conversation with Lisa or Laura (or Pierre!) before long.

Update: Haha. I’m so green at my French that I had the verb “to read” incorrect in the headline. I had “lis” instead of “lit”.

Some New Romantic

While cleaning my office this afternoon, I found the journal I kept when we traveled to London, Dublin, and New York during the summer of 2007. Two years ago today, we were spending our last full day in Dublin. I spent €29.13 (roughly $39.84) on lunch, magazines, ice cream, and mass transit.

But what I was really excited to find was that while touring the big art museums on that trip, I had written down some of my favorite artists and paintings. Right now, Kris and I are in the process of redecorating the “Man Room” (the red room, or the den), and I’m looking for some art to put on the walls.

While I cannot afford originals, I might be able to afford some reproductions. So I’m taking this chance to transcribe the notes to a more permanent location.

Francis Danby

Francis Danby was an Irish landscape artist who lived from 1793-1861. His images seem liquid and dreamy. They’re definitely part of the Romantic era. At the Royal Albert museum in London, I saw a Danby painting I really liked: The Upas, or Poison-Tree, in the Island of Java. I can’t find it online anywhere, though, and I only have a vague recollection of what it looked like.

Here are some of Danby’s other works:


The Deluge (with Noah’s ark in the background)


View of the Avon Gorge


The Enchanted Island


Oberon and Titania

Sergei Chepik

There’s a terse note in my journal: “In St. Paul’s, I like the paintings of Sergei Chepik.” Unfortunately, this doesn’t tell me much. Looking online, I can see that Chepik was born in 1953, but I don’t particularly care for the works I can find. I wonder what I meant by that note.

Joseph Turner

Before we left for England, a friend of Kris’ parents urged us to check out the paintings by Joseph Turner (1775-1851) while we were at The National Gallery in London. Turner was another English Romantic. He focused less on landscapes, though, than on sea scenes. And his work evolved until his later stuff became quite abstract (almost what we’d consider modern art).

On the whole, I didn’t like Turner as much as I had hoped, but there were several pieces I did like:


The Shipwreck


The Junction of the Thames and the Medway


Ulysses Deriding Polyphemus


Snow Storm: Hannibal and his Army Crossing the Alps


Dido Building Carthage


Frosty Morning


Rain, Steam, and Speed — The Great Western Railway

John Constable

While Turner was not my favorite, I did find one English artist that I loved. John Constable (1776-1837) was another English Romantic painter that I liked (notice a theme here?). Many of his subjects depict quiet country life, that pastoral lifestyle for which I pine. His work has a very natural feel about it, as if he understands the plants and the animals.

Note that Constable, too, got more experimental with age. Here are some of my favorite Constables:


Stratford Mill


The Valley Farm


The White Horse


The Haywain


Stonehenge


Salisbury Cathedral

Footnote

I’m not sure which of these I’ll choose to decorate the den yet, but I’d like to use one or two of them. I have a story about that last painting from Constable, though.

While we were in England, we took a driving tour of the countryside. One of our stops was in Salisbury to see the cathedral. I took several photos of it.

A couple of weeks later, we were in New York. While touring The Frick Gallery, I happened upon Constable’s Salisbury Cathedral. Excited, I pulled out my camera to review the photos I had taken. I wanted to compare them to the painting. A museum security guard was by my side instantly, telling me to stop. I tried to explain to him that I had just been to this cathedral. I showed him the photo on my dSLR. He was unimpressed. He wouldn’t let me browse the photos on my camera, even if I promised not to take a photo. I was disappointed. (Thanks to Kris for correcting my memory of this story.)